By A. Scott Walton
The first rule of thumb for being a well-dressed man is that there are no rules for dressing well.
So says Tom Julian, author of the new “Nordstrom Guide to Men’s Every Day Dressing” (Chronicle, $17.95). Following up on brisk sales of his “Nordstrom Guide to Men’s Style”, Julian now urges this mindset: “Forget the rules. Think occasions.”
On Saturday (March 27, 6-8 p.m., free), Julian’s hosting a Hugo Boss-sponsored cocktail at the Phipps Plaza Nordstrom store to sign copies of the book and steer men toward the looks that can solve their wardrobe quandaries.
Julian, a tireless and world-renowned trend forecaster, said he’ll be there all day consulting men seeking advice on dressing for the four key occasions in life: work day, weekend, after hours and travel.
By phone from a book tour stop in Houston, Julian gave EyeSeeStyle an exclusive revelation of his book’s key principles…
ESS: This book treats “corporate casual” dressing as a given, but can you foresee a day coming where “traditional”, suit-and-tie dictates return to the workplace?
TJ: “Well, we already see how important the return of the blazer is to looking appropriate in the workplace. And, looking ahead, the ‘Wall Street II’ movie will certainly bring the tailored suit story to a whole new generation. But we can’t ignore that people are still driven by lifestyle.”
ESS: Out of the four “occasions” that your book guides men through, which do they find the hardest to come to grips with and gear up correctly for?
TJ: “I’d say it leans toward weekend-to-travel. On weekends, a man dives into his chores and activities. He still gravitates toward sweat pants and sweat shirts. There’s nothing wrong with that. But what he wants is to look good going from Starbucks to the soccer field to the mall. He just needs the perfect pieces that offer the versatility.”
ESS: Who really determines what’s in style in terms of menswear?: The magazines, the designers, the retailers or the customers?
TJ: “It’s a combination. The customer ultimately makes the buying decision. Retailers watch, participate in the discussion and make recommendations. It’s all more collaborative than ever. “
ESS: What does Nordstrom gain from publishing a succession of books about men’s style?
TJ: “The book becomes an authoritative piece, and an in-store tool. It’s working as a guide, and another mode of communication. And it’s selling, from a 12-year-old I met on the East coast to a four-decade premium card holder out here in the West. And I sold both of them clothes.”
ESS: You mention Atlanta’s most celebrated fashion retailer, Jeffrey Kalinsky, in the guide’s opening remarks; how did Kalinsky make an impact on the book?
TJ: “He gave very strong views about sportswear, and how the best modern pieces are actually classics worn in different ways. He helped conceptualize the dressy-to-casual concept, and made those photos in the book come to life. ”
ESS: While you’re traveling the world spotting trends, does any one city strike you as a place where men have a better grasp of how to dressing for the occasion?
TJ: “One city where men seem to get it right more often than most is London. But, then again, that’s a place known for great travel, great work environments, great evenings and weekend activities outdoors. And the retail scene supports it. Domestically, we have so many climate issues to deal with from L.A. to Chicago to New York that it’s hard to keep a balance as you move around.
ESS: Your book says to ‘forget the rules’, but aren’t there any that men should adhere to?
TJ: “I wouldn’t say these are rules, but I rely certain guidelines, like quality over quantity. Fit and proportion are key. And it’s probably best to shop for updated classics rather than trendy pieces.”
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